Frequently Asked Questions

3. Where can I install luxury vinyl?

Luxury vinyl as well as sheet vinyl is perfect for locations where water is prevalent—bathrooms, laundry rooms, mud rooms, and kitchens. It is also great in basements and playrooms, where you need a practical, hardworking, and comfortable floor.

4. How is luxury vinyl installed?

There are primarily two installation techniques for luxury vinyl: fully adhered (glued) to the subfloor and click (floating).

5. Is luxury vinyl new?

No. Luxury vinyl has been used in commercial flooring for nearly 50 years. It initially featured “industrial” styling, making it less popular for residential use. As manufacturers developed more residential-friendly designs mimicking wood, tile, and stone, luxury vinyl quickly gained popularity in homes.

6. Will vinyl stand up to children and pets?

The durability of vinyl is determined by its wear layer and thickness. The thicker the wear layer and vinyl, the more durable it is. A 20 mil wear layer provides excellent scratch resistance. Many sheet vinyl styles we carry come with specific warranties against ripping, tearing, and gouging.

7. What are the different types of LVP?

Luxury vinyl flooring (LVF) has various types such as LVT, LVP, WPC, and SPC:

• LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile): Designed to mimic stone, ceramic, or traditional tile materials.
• LVP (Luxury Vinyl Plank): Shaped as planks to replicate hardwood flooring.

Glue-Down LVT

Glue-down LVT requires adhesive to bond the vinyl to the subfloor. It is stable, secure, and durable, especially for high-traffic areas.

WPC: Wood Plastic Composite

WPC is a combination of wood fibers and plastic, creating a resilient, waterproof, and stable flooring. It’s quiet and comfortable, perfect for moisture-prone areas like kitchens and bathrooms.

SPC: Stone Plastic Composite

SPC has a dense core, making it impact-resistant and temperature resistant, suitable for high-traffic areas and sunrooms.

WPC vs. SPC

WPC: Softer and quieter, ideal for comfort-focused areas.

SPC: Stronger and more impact-resistant, suitable for high-traffic areas.

8. Are vinyl floors really waterproof?

Sheet vinyl floors are topically waterproof, meaning liquids cannot pass through the vinyl itself. However, water can get under vinyl from the room’s perimeter or a high-moisture slab. This also applies to most LVT/LVP, which may resist spills but cannot protect the subfloor during flooding.

9. How thick is LVP?

The thickness of most LVP ranges from 5 mm to 8 mm. Thicker LVP/LVT with a minimum of 5 mm is sturdier and requires less floor prep/levelling. High-quality brands with good warranties are recommended.

10. How do I take care of vinyl?

Care for vinyl is simple: sweep or vacuum as needed, and mop with the manufacturer’s recommended cleaner. Approved cleaning products can be found at Enhance Floors & More.

11. What is IXPE pad?

IXPE is a premium foam underlayment for LVP/LVT that provides sound reduction, shock absorption, and resistance to mold and mildew.

12. Am I able to use rugs or mats on my floor?

Yes, but use a quality rug pad to prevent scratching. Rubber-backed mats are not recommended, as they may stain the floor.

13. Will sunlight damage my floor?

Vinyl can fade or warp due to sun exposure. Most LVT/LVP is not warrantied for sunrooms, so using blinds or shades on sunny days helps protect the floor.

14. Why is some vinyl more expensive than others?

Some vinyl has additional features like thicker wear layers, aluminum oxide, or Scotchgard, which increase its durability and price.

15. How much does a typical kitchen (300 sq. ft.) cost?

Luxury vinyl costs range: “good” quality at $2,500, “better” at $3,000, and “best” at $3,500 installed. Sheet vinyl costs range from $2,000 to $3,500, depending on selection and installation details.

16. What is floor prep?

Floor prep involves making the subfloor flat, clean, dry, and structurally sound as per the manufacturer’s requirements. For LVP/LVT, the subfloor must be level within 3/16” over a 10’ span.

17. What is linoleum?

Linoleum is made from natural components like linseed oil. Today, most vinyl flooring is synthetic, while real linoleum is rare and requires regular waxing.

18. Which should I do first, paint or the new floor?

We recommend doing floors first, especially if there’s demo involved. A painter can protect new floors, and doing paint last avoids potential damage from installation or demo work.

The Truth About "Waterproof" Floors

The waterproof floor (whether LVP, laminate, wood) itself may be waterproof—or at least resistant to water. The locking systems on many of these floors are also designed to withstand exposure to water, but not indefinitely. Think of a “waterproof” floor as being resistant to typical household occurrences: spills, splashes, pet accidents, and wet mopping. In fact, we prefer to call these floors spill-resistant rather than waterproof. Here’s why:

What Happens with Excessive Water?

When we talk about "waterproof," we mean impervious to water—unable to allow water to penetrate or pass through. But even the best waterproof materials have their limits, and that’s where things get tricky. A floor—especially a wood or laminate floor (which can be up to 80% wood)—cannot truly be impervious to water. Think about it: roofs can leak, swimming pools can leak, showers can leak. These structures are designed to withstand constant moisture exposure, yet they can still be damaged by water. So, how can we expect a floor to be any different?

When excessive water is introduced to the floor, whether it’s from a flood, a burst pipe, or a leaky roof, it can seep into the edges and underneath the planks. Once water gets into the subfloor, walls, and trim, serious damage can occur. The faster you act to clean up the water, the better, but the bottom line is: if your home floods, your "waterproof" floor won’t be the safeguard you may hope for.

The majority of water damage insurance claims are due to plumbing issues or appliance malfunctions. Weather-related events like flooding, snow, or burst pipes are less common but still significant. In these situations, your “waterproof” floor won’t protect you. While it might handle minor spills or splashes, it won’t stand up to large-scale water exposure. So, don’t assume that purchasing a “waterproof” floor will prevent the damage from a flood or other major water event.

Can You Save the Floor?

You might be thinking: "What if I just pull up the floor, dry everything out, and reinstall it?" In some cases, you may be able to salvage a small area if you’re very careful. However, it’s important to note that the locking system is delicate, and removing planks without damaging the tongues can be tricky. You’d also need to number the planks in order to reinstall them correctly.

But in the case of a full flood, that’s not going to be an option. If you need to call in a remediation company, their primary concern is removing the flooring quickly to begin the drying process and prevent mold growth—an expensive problem for insurance companies. They won’t be focused on saving your floor. In these instances, it’s very likely that you’ll need to replace not just the flooring, but also the subfloor, trim, sheetrock, and possibly even furniture.

Conclusion

To put it simply: no floor is truly "impervious" to water. While waterproof floors can handle small spills and everyday moisture, they are not designed to withstand large amounts of water or flooding. Rather than thinking of your "waterproof" floor as an ultimate safeguard against water damage, consider it a surface that resists liquid exposure as long as you act quickly to clean it up.

By understanding the true capabilities of your flooring, you can avoid disappointment when it comes to water damage claims and ensure you're not relying on your floor to protect you from the kind of water damage that requires a much bigger solution—like homeowner’s insurance.